THE SHAMAN’S DOUBLE: Eurozape to Mokropsy?

I bought a bicycle three years ago. How glad I was to have it at the time of the coronary crisis. Driving it relieved me of worries, not unnecessary worries, but ones I couldn’t do much with. How glad I was to be able to ride it during the Russian invasion of Ukraine!


One of my favorite routes takes us from the southwestern valley town of Prokop to the Vltava, where, after taking several lanes of the Barrandov Bridge, the photogenic Branická skála appears on the other bank of the river. From there, the Prague North-South Cycle Highway No. A1 takes me upriver on the Vltava. Or also EV4. “EV” stands for EuroVelo, and is the “Central European Route”. From Bohumín, large cities such as Brno and Prague flow into the Czech Republic. It ends in the Czech Republic after about 900 km in Cheb. It has a complete ending somewhere in Bavaria.

The most comfortable way for me is always around water. Although the Vltava is replaced by the Berounka. Á jednička ends at the footbridge over the weir in Černošice, just below the local train station, EV4 continues with cycle path 3. I’ve ridden it to Beroun before, and I ride it quite often been like winter. But I always try to find a turn that I haven’t taken yet. Or a new shortener / extender. Flying through the unknown always appeals to me! So when I crossed the Černošice around the railway corridor for the hundredth time this sunny Sunday, I wanted another unfamiliar bend. Directly from the end of the A1 it is not possible to walk along the shore, because between the highway and Berounka the houses have gardens down to the river. Even now it wouldn’t occur to me to look to the shore, as I rushed first through Karlstejn to Serbia and then to St. Janu pod Skalou. And then home. To be done before sunset. However, when I reached the cross street Říční, I slowed down, because it occurred to me that a road so named could lead to the river. So I went down to her like that.

And almost to the river, River Street leads, but not completely. It ends abruptly in the Jas cottage colony, ending in a transverse sidewalk, which ends left and right at the garden gate. But thanks to the newborn nature of Taurus, I always try to go as far as possible. So I dig in the narrow path between two living bushes. I did the trick! And here I am on the coastal path with beautiful views on the opposite bank. But shh, don’t tell anyone about this escape through the bushes, the settlers love their peace. As shown by the first encounter with one of them, whom I meet a hundred meters upstream, where the coastal path joins the road. He warns me and shows me the sign indicating that the path I have just left is marked on this side: Access forbidden to motorbikes and cyclists. No entry by car is not marked – it would not fit. I apologize for explaining that I fell off the path. And because I see two large pillars standing near the shore not far from each other, and across the river I can also see two large wooden pillars, painted in a two-tone spiral, I remember of the preparation of the house above the map and I ask:

“Was there a ferry here?”

The cottager confirms it to me: “Yeah, but it’s been a long time. About fifteen years. He’s not here anymore. Luckily,” he grumbles. Well, the settlers love their peace.

Mokropsy 2

I notice that the opposite columns are painted red and white, i.e. the old Czech bicolor (now only Polish). And on this east bank – yellow-blue! How could I not, I ended up on Ukrajinská street … Even though a road sign with the inscription of the owner “OSADA POD KAZÍNEM” shines on the fence. Well, the ferry was called Kazín, and even the beautiful rock opposite has an inscription that reveals: KAZÍN.

Rocky ridges rise on the other side, but here you can comfortably climb the plain upstream. The village Minu, Kazín, then the village Na výsluní and their pubs, near the village Na cípu Ukrajinská street turns between the houses, and I continue along the coastal road to the village below Hladká skála. And suddenly I’m on Kubánská street, and it is, according to – a bike path! It will take me to a new pool, where it ends after half a kilometer. I ask a young grandmother, “Are you looking forward to swimming here again with the children?

He replies: “Rather, the little ones will just play on the sand. There’s a current here and they’re taking their kids, so we have to keep them in irons.”

Mokropsy 3

Even here it is no longer Černošice, but their “rural” part of Mokropsa. In fact lower Mokropsy. Upper Mokropsy lies beyond the river. The villages of Unter and Ober Mokropetz were once in Austria and are mentioned since 1088. However, the old glory did not survive in the new era: since 1950 Dolní Mokropsy belongs to Černošice, and those to Horní pod Všenory. Since 1868, they have been connected by a steel railway bridge on line 171, that is, Prague-Smíchov – Plzeň. It was taken by a large body of water in 1872. It was built new, better, from the swimming pool it is beautiful to see. Cycle path no. 3./EV4 leads there, which I have used several times. More precisely, on a wooden footbridge, which is attached to it on the flood side. But every time I went down the steep sidewalk of Na Skále Street (Cyclist, get off my bike!), I froze a little, because there is a warning sign with a ban on entry and the inscription ” Private land” rising from the wall on the right.

It’s not clear to me: how come the backbone bike path crosses private land with no entrance (the way people walk here anyway).

The second is not clear to me: How is it that in front of this sign are placed traffic signs Cyclist dismounts from the bike (they don’t get off anyway) and Prohibition of entry of motorcycles (in the same way that they drive here).

More or less, the third one is not even clear to me: why a coastal cycle path about half a kilometer long, leading from nowhere to nowhere, was built in Mokropsy. Thus, at the eastern end, it can be accessed from Ukraine, and from the western tip of the pool, it is proposed to extend it by an unnamed upward path between U Mlýna and Na Skále streets. (See map.) But this would probably increase long-distance traffic in the cottage settlement Pod Hladkou skalou …

Mokropsy 4

Magnificent views take place from this railway bridge. I have photographed here in summer and winter a steep coastal slate rock, a weir and the adjacent mill. Well, this bridge, on which the footbridge is located, must be rebuilt from the second half of next year. It should be done by 2026. Its steel lattice structure will also be replaced, it should be new (maybe because of environmentalists, maybe because it is beautiful) of the same shape. And the noise will be reduced, although it will be possible to drive at speeds of up to 160 km/h. She not only runs EuroCycloStezka, but also the important EuroRailway. However, I doubt EuroVelo will be kept here during the repair process. How do we get to the other side?

We will have to clumsily climb the steep Sluneční street from the off-road, cross line 171 over the bridge and turn left about thirty meters and half a kilometer further. Where the public road goes steep to brake – another cycle path! Which leads to a beautiful footbridge over the Berounka in Dobřichovice, 4 km away. Thus, Eurozálot cycling will not take place in Mokropsy. Glory!

Mokropsy 5

Just that this road goes through both Ober Mokropsy and the whole Všenory. Thus, the Bottoms do not reach the Horňák family so easily. Ice on a boat. Or across the bridge! The young grandmother in the sandbox also told me that there was a pontoon bridge here. Or here”?

“Good here! From here, as it is now a swimming pool, on the other side was a pontoon bridge. For this reason, an asphalt road still leads today from Všenor to the shore. The bridge was still sailing after the season. But he swam behind a lot of water, and he’s gone.”

So it comes to mind: if the cycle paths are obviously organized with EU money, as well as the reconstruction of the railway, if a footbridge for pedestrians, cyclists – and ambulances could not be built here with the same European money!? I will ask the Černošice town hall and the railway administration. The next time.

But it’s a job that can’t be done from the saddle of a bicycle. And when I prefer to pedal rather than investigate!

Mokropsy 6

I wish you a beautiful spring from Lužiny, where I wrote it on Tuesday, March 29, 2022.

PS Karlštejn, Serbia, or Sv. I didn’t catch Jan pod Skalou. I drove the cross and the Dolní Pětipsy cross, took pictures and led the speeches. I took it home by a shortcut via Vonoklasy and Kuchařík. I love the Czech landscape and the poetic names of our villages!

Taken from Šaman’s U hřbitova pub.

Leave a Comment